Wool 'n' Wood is a shared Blog for Sue's Crafts and Rays Wood and Steel projects. Sue has been knitting for many years and took on the crafts of spinning, weaving, dyeing and felting. Ray has always been into wood and steel and making and repairing things.
Wednesday, July 31, 2013
Blue is the Colour
We have some friends expecting a new baby boy in January so Sue has made another pair of the little socks which babies can't kick off so easy for them.
Myford ML7 Drip Oilers & Top Slide + P-plates
The Myford ML7 Drip Oilers
When I purchased the ML7 I was warned that the drip oilers where not working, one is an original and the other a new type. David had been using a syringe to fill just enough for a turning session what remaind would run out by morning the next day. I had tried adjusting so as to allow them to work as they should, which is as other owners have told me 1 drip every 10 minutes approx. No way where they going to do this, seal were leaking the visy glass wasn't tight on the gasket on the old one and the newer one was not seated into the top of the bearing cap properly.
I asked a few questions over on the Model Engine Makers Forum as there are a number who have Myford's also. I found the Myford manual only had limited information and the Myford 7 series book had even less, this included instructions for operation and adjustment clearly and the visual photo although ok wasn't clear enough for I felt.
I removed both drip oilers, the oldest being a ball and needle operation was the one which required the most done, with all gaskets to be replaced. Thanks to Sue for her help in supplying me with some nice leather and then her cutting them round and punching the holes with my wad punches.
I had no clear instructions for R&R I took photos along the route of removal of the parts to record how it came apart. Just as well I did as I had a few days where I couldn't get back to complete the task. A quick check prior reassembly and all has been so far a job worth doing. I am able to see clearly through the visy glass the drop's of oil at a decent rate.
The newer drip oiler only required a removal of the needle a clean of the seat and tube it was housed in and the foam filter moved as it was blocking the flow. A new base gasket and refit both.
I filled both and tested again on the lathe and could see evidence of flow rate quite well in tune with what I had been told of 1 drip per 10 mins. I left them over night to see if any leakage as prior the repairs and only very light on the old one around the union of the storage glass at the base a light tighten and another check over the coming days. At least no major leakage of emptying out over night.
Left are the original instructions from the Myford manual. The one shown has two oil filler holes where as mine only has the one. No sign of the flip leaver for feeding or stopping oil drip.
Right is the newer instructions.
The flip leavers should be vertical to allow feed of oil and should be turned off after each session use.
The original top needle and seat.
Left shows the oil gauze filer of the original one.
Right shows spring orientation and the ball.
Both refitted photos taken the following morning showing no major leak on the new one to the left and a slight weep round the bowl/cork gasket on the right.
Myford ML7 Top Slide.
The top slide was a little tight towards the rearward extremity so a removal clean and refit of the Gib and a small adjustment had that operating much better.
The two T-bolts which retained the top slide were smaller than I would have thought in dia 5/16" and one had a stripped thread but would tighten up ok. I ordered through RDG Tools UK some parts amongst these were some new top slide T-bolts these were 3/8" dia fitted well to the T-slots but restricted the top slide form pivoting. On close inspection I found no wear marks on the internal area of the slots of the top slide and no attempt to remove any casting dags. The 3/8" T-bolts didn't have clearance to allow the top slide to pivot at all. I used just a half round and rat tail file to clean off the scale and dags left from casting. I know can swing the top slide with just releasing the T-bolts enough to allow movement.
Had the 3 previous owners never used the top slide pivot feature, had they all just left the 5/16" T-bolts as they were? I did have trouble trying to pivot when they were on there also.
Underside of the top slide above shows how the 3/8" T-bolt wouldn't traverse cleanly through.
Once I had filed out all rough dags of the casting process the T-Bolt passed without a catch.
It means I can now bring the tailstock right up to the toolpost yet still swing it if need be.
I am surprised as an angle of amlost 30deg is required to cut threads. Had none cut threads on this lathe previously?
At least I will be able to.
What else did I buy through RDG Tools?
A set of Swan neck hold down clamps, a set of Milling clamps, a few spare T-bolts and nuts 1" and 2". Graduated hand wheel for the feed screw, a chuck mount adaptor to fit the milling attachement and a traveling steady. I was lucky in that I purchased these thing just as the Australian dollar and Uk pound were sliding further apart in June.
I will take photos of these in use when the time comes.
P-Plates
No I'd say I should still be an L plater on the lathe but as these come FREE, picked up off the road side when Sue takes Max for a walk I will have an endless supply until they stop loosing them.
Something I have been using to help minimize swarf clean up for metal on the lathe magnetic P or L plates lost by young drivers. I have cut one in half and placed between the ways no it doesn't hinder the saddle travel but it does help in clean up. I also use one in front of the cross slide under the cut area it attracts all steel swarf and again a quick brush off and its clean. I have a plastic bag I clean into but I use a rag or brush to clean it off if large swarf a bang on the work surface inside the bag clears the majority.
Hope this helps.
Ray
Left located at the front of the cross slide and end of the ways.
Right at the mid point rear of the cross slide.
When I purchased the ML7 I was warned that the drip oilers where not working, one is an original and the other a new type. David had been using a syringe to fill just enough for a turning session what remaind would run out by morning the next day. I had tried adjusting so as to allow them to work as they should, which is as other owners have told me 1 drip every 10 minutes approx. No way where they going to do this, seal were leaking the visy glass wasn't tight on the gasket on the old one and the newer one was not seated into the top of the bearing cap properly.
I asked a few questions over on the Model Engine Makers Forum as there are a number who have Myford's also. I found the Myford manual only had limited information and the Myford 7 series book had even less, this included instructions for operation and adjustment clearly and the visual photo although ok wasn't clear enough for I felt.
I removed both drip oilers, the oldest being a ball and needle operation was the one which required the most done, with all gaskets to be replaced. Thanks to Sue for her help in supplying me with some nice leather and then her cutting them round and punching the holes with my wad punches.
I had no clear instructions for R&R I took photos along the route of removal of the parts to record how it came apart. Just as well I did as I had a few days where I couldn't get back to complete the task. A quick check prior reassembly and all has been so far a job worth doing. I am able to see clearly through the visy glass the drop's of oil at a decent rate.
The newer drip oiler only required a removal of the needle a clean of the seat and tube it was housed in and the foam filter moved as it was blocking the flow. A new base gasket and refit both.
I filled both and tested again on the lathe and could see evidence of flow rate quite well in tune with what I had been told of 1 drip per 10 mins. I left them over night to see if any leakage as prior the repairs and only very light on the old one around the union of the storage glass at the base a light tighten and another check over the coming days. At least no major leakage of emptying out over night.
Right is the newer instructions.
The flip leavers should be vertical to allow feed of oil and should be turned off after each session use.
 |
| Original drip oiler |
 |
| New Drip oiler |
The original top needle and seat.
 |
| Majority of parts |
Left shows the oil gauze filer of the original one.
Right shows spring orientation and the ball.
 |
| Gaskets, filter, needle, ball & spring. |
 |
| Needle spring |
 |
| New cork Gasket for the Bowl base. |
Both refitted photos taken the following morning showing no major leak on the new one to the left and a slight weep round the bowl/cork gasket on the right.
Myford ML7 Top Slide.
The top slide was a little tight towards the rearward extremity so a removal clean and refit of the Gib and a small adjustment had that operating much better.
The two T-bolts which retained the top slide were smaller than I would have thought in dia 5/16" and one had a stripped thread but would tighten up ok. I ordered through RDG Tools UK some parts amongst these were some new top slide T-bolts these were 3/8" dia fitted well to the T-slots but restricted the top slide form pivoting. On close inspection I found no wear marks on the internal area of the slots of the top slide and no attempt to remove any casting dags. The 3/8" T-bolts didn't have clearance to allow the top slide to pivot at all. I used just a half round and rat tail file to clean off the scale and dags left from casting. I know can swing the top slide with just releasing the T-bolts enough to allow movement.
Had the 3 previous owners never used the top slide pivot feature, had they all just left the 5/16" T-bolts as they were? I did have trouble trying to pivot when they were on there also.
Underside of the top slide above shows how the 3/8" T-bolt wouldn't traverse cleanly through.
Once I had filed out all rough dags of the casting process the T-Bolt passed without a catch.
 |
| Refitted and pivoted to allow clearance of the tailstock. |
It means I can now bring the tailstock right up to the toolpost yet still swing it if need be.
I am surprised as an angle of amlost 30deg is required to cut threads. Had none cut threads on this lathe previously?
At least I will be able to.
What else did I buy through RDG Tools?
A set of Swan neck hold down clamps, a set of Milling clamps, a few spare T-bolts and nuts 1" and 2". Graduated hand wheel for the feed screw, a chuck mount adaptor to fit the milling attachement and a traveling steady. I was lucky in that I purchased these thing just as the Australian dollar and Uk pound were sliding further apart in June.
I will take photos of these in use when the time comes.
P-Plates
No I'd say I should still be an L plater on the lathe but as these come FREE, picked up off the road side when Sue takes Max for a walk I will have an endless supply until they stop loosing them.Something I have been using to help minimize swarf clean up for metal on the lathe magnetic P or L plates lost by young drivers. I have cut one in half and placed between the ways no it doesn't hinder the saddle travel but it does help in clean up. I also use one in front of the cross slide under the cut area it attracts all steel swarf and again a quick brush off and its clean. I have a plastic bag I clean into but I use a rag or brush to clean it off if large swarf a bang on the work surface inside the bag clears the majority.
Hope this helps.
Ray
Left located at the front of the cross slide and end of the ways.
Right at the mid point rear of the cross slide.
Friday, July 26, 2013
Bianca's Baby Doll Bed
Having made the grandsons a canon each to play with, I wanted to make Bianca something special also so I gave her the choice.
A Doll bed Poppy please was the response.
So we checked the internet for a style, best to get these things right as Bianca has her own ideas on how things should be. The only thing we disagree on is colour she wants it painted Pink, while Pop wold like her to experience true wood as nature gives it to us with it hidden secrets.
So while she is away on holidays. I decided to make a start never thinking the weather would be so nice or the past few days.
I had also had a few other projects which had to be tackled during this time while I could jump to while weather was to cold, wet or glue was drying.
Here's the work in progress to frame glue up today.
Timber for the frame is Silky Oak, head board piece I chose had a knot so I book leafed it.
The timber is pinkish all the cu pieces laid out.
Dry assembly
I lay the two bedhead end post together to mortise a recess for the head board to sit into.
Used my Aldi Chome Vanadium chisel.
Cut and shaped two sizes of L shapes for safety sides so dolly doesn't fall out of bed.
Sue Nana is going to make the mattress and bedding they will be Pink.
A Doll bed Poppy please was the response.
So we checked the internet for a style, best to get these things right as Bianca has her own ideas on how things should be. The only thing we disagree on is colour she wants it painted Pink, while Pop wold like her to experience true wood as nature gives it to us with it hidden secrets.
So while she is away on holidays. I decided to make a start never thinking the weather would be so nice or the past few days.
I had also had a few other projects which had to be tackled during this time while I could jump to while weather was to cold, wet or glue was drying.
Here's the work in progress to frame glue up today.
Timber for the frame is Silky Oak, head board piece I chose had a knot so I book leafed it.
The timber is pinkish all the cu pieces laid out.
Dry assembly
I lay the two bedhead end post together to mortise a recess for the head board to sit into.Used my Aldi Chome Vanadium chisel.
Cut and shaped two sizes of L shapes for safety sides so dolly doesn't fall out of bed.
A test fit tight and snug.
All four post had the tops turned to a low dome shape
Glued and Clamping foot end
All glued and clamped and diagonal clamped to square
Sue Nana is going to make the mattress and bedding they will be Pink.
Thursday, July 18, 2013
Lucets - A Viking Heritage Tool
Sue got a request for a few Lucets to be made, so I raked through some scrap off cuts I knew had some varieties of timber. I used Huon Pine, NSW Rosewood, Purple Heart, Red Cedar, English Oak, Jacaranda, River Oak and Silky Oak. Bottle Bush/Melaleuca, Camphor, Native Olive and Red Mallee Burl. There are 29 which made the finish stage some were just to thin and broke during stages of making them.
This was a joint project as arthritis and my fingers in this cold weather just were not doing well. I cut, drilled and sanded to general shape. Sue further shaped, rounded edges and fine sanded prior a coat of Danish Oil and final coat of Wipe On Poly.
They are various thickness s well as shapes.
This was a joint project as arthritis and my fingers in this cold weather just were not doing well. I cut, drilled and sanded to general shape. Sue further shaped, rounded edges and fine sanded prior a coat of Danish Oil and final coat of Wipe On Poly.
They are various thickness s well as shapes.
Saturday, July 13, 2013
Nice day in The Country
Had a great day at Mudgee Field Days yesterday. Got away a little late but glad we did as we had heavy fog in some areas but missed the rain chased it out there, very dry from Lithgow on.
Great to just wander around and enjoy the atmosphere, see whats new for those who still work the land. Of course these events are nothing without some live stock.
Great to see some of the local peoples displays like the woodworkers, the local steam and traction engine display as well.
Great to just wander around and enjoy the atmosphere, see whats new for those who still work the land. Of course these events are nothing without some live stock.
Great to see some of the local peoples displays like the woodworkers, the local steam and traction engine display as well.
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